Overjas

 

Overjas voor mannen gemaakt van lichtblauw katoen met een voering van grijs katoen. De kraag is afgezet met banden witte stof. Aan de voorzijde van het gewaad zijn sluitbanden aangebracht om de...

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Objectnummer
RV-520-11
Instelling
Stichting Nationaal Museum van Wereldculturen
Periode
1800-1885
Herkomst
Korea

Overjas voor mannen gemaakt van lichtblauw katoen met een voering van grijs katoen. De kraag is afgezet met banden witte stof. Aan de voorzijde van het gewaad zijn sluitbanden aangebracht om de jas mee dicht te knopen. This is an outer coat for nobel men called turumagi. It had a stand-up collar with mu (gussets) and wide sleeves. Its backside was split open in the middle from the waist down, with an extra-long flap, which made it more comfortable to ride a horse. The turumagi was worn by upper class men even before the Three Kingdoms period, and developed into various styles such as ch'angŭi and top'o, all with large flowing sleeves. Later in the Choson dynasty the much modified version became the turumagi, worn by all as part of the proper attire for formal occasions. It had narrower sleeves and korŭm which tied at the right side of the chest, instead of the chest-band. It was worn for both warmth and appropriateness. To make turumagi, gussets were attached on each side from the armpit to the hem, making a flare effect for freedom and better mobility. The upper class, yangban used either plain or luxuriously patterned silk brocade, satin, or soft silk. The turumagi were lined, and padded with a thin layer of cotten batting in the winter for further warmth. They used fine cotton, which was lined, for spring and fall, and used fine, light weight, unlined ramie, linen for the summer. Later wool gabardine became very popular for warmth and practicality as winter wear.

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